Ulysse Nardin's Freak S Watch Illuminates with Flinqué Enamel

Weird and flinqué.

Ulysse Nardin has added a fresh interpretation to its flagship complication, the Freak S Enamel, featuring a silver-toned titanium case with a choice of red or turquoise translucent enamel and an engine-turned dial. While the mechanical architecture remains unchanged, the simpler case design and high-gloss dial transform the overall visual effect and further highlight the central rotating disc – both the time display and the heart of the movement.

Enamel editions, limited editions in each color, are the fourth member of the Freak S collection, launched in 2022 as a high-end dual-balance evolution of the Freak Vision.

Since its inception 25 years ago, the Freak collection has given Ulysse Nardin the freedom to push the boundaries of movement design. While the crownless case and central rotating disc have become familiar over the years, each iteration remains an experiment.

The new enamel Freak S is the most aesthetically restrained yet, yet it also offers the most luxurious touches, eschewing exotic material combinations in favor of polished titanium and vibrant enamel. The result is a watch that retains its avant-garde flair, yet offers a more refined aesthetic.

For example, the 45mm case is the simplest yet in the Freak S collection: no carbon fiber sides or PVD coating. A traditional brushed and polished finish allows the large case to blend seamlessly into the background, allowing the enamel dial and starship-like rotating disc to shine even brighter. For a collection known for its extreme boldness, the return to a more natural metal is somewhat refreshing.

The same holds true for the rotating dial, which features a new radial guilloché pattern and is covered in transparent enamel. The enamel, available in red and turquoise, adds a pleasing pop of color without stealing the show from the carousel. In fact, the raised ring surrounding the engine-turned disc visually reduces the dial's size, making the carousel appear larger than on other Freak S models—an unexpected yet welcome change in proportion.

Unfortunately, press photos reveal tiny bubbles in the enamel, and the dial appears slightly stained under magnification. To be fair, these may simply be pre-production samples, and the final product may be even better. Regardless, the effect is rich and pleasing from a distance, and the central rotating disc remains the centerpiece.

The Freak has never been a budget watch; it has always been at or near the top of the UN line. Even so, it has always maintained a unique value proposition and a unique concept. This is also true of the Freak S enamel watch, which retails for CHF 153,000 (including Swiss VAT). The dual-balance system connected by a differential is valuable in its own right; installing it on a rotating disc is truly remarkable, not to mention the Freak's unique visual identity and historical significance.

So familiar
The engine driving the Freak S enamel watch is the same UN-251 caliber we've previously explored in depth. While its appearance may appear somewhat chaotic, the movement's design concept is remarkably elegant. A rotating disc, mounted on a fixed ring gear and driven from the center, rotates once an hour, serving as the minute hand. Below, a dial, doubling as the barrel's crown, rotates once every 12 hours, serving as the hour hand.

The movement is luxuriously constructed, utilizing every inch of the case to optimal effect; it's the kind of watch you'd never want to be smaller. The differential is a visual feast for mechanical enthusiasts, effectively balancing the rate of the twin free-sprung balances.

Without a seconds hand, its effectiveness is difficult to measure; its value lies primarily on an intellectual level. Even so, the movement undergoes testing similar to standards used by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), ensuring that each Freak S watch maintains a daily accuracy of 0 to +10 seconds. This chronometric performance is aided by a highly efficient proprietary winding system called the Grinder, named after the capstan system used on sailboats.

The Grinder system utilizes four pawls for rapid winding and maintains the mainspring in the optimal region of the torque curve. These features combine to create a unique and harmonious whole.

Changing the Color
While the movement remains unchanged, the dial certainly has. Throughout the Freak S's brief history, UN has employed a variety of materials to adorn its dial, including aventurine glass for the first model, and raw guilloché and crystallized ruthenium in subsequent versions. In contrast, flinqué enamel seems almost mainstream, yet the effect is quite remarkable.

The hand-engraved guilloché dial employs classic techniques, engraved internally, with a radial groove pattern creating a stadium-like appearance, focusing the attention on the rotating disc. As is common with high-end enamel dials, the dial base is crafted from a white gold alloy with a high palladium content, a material prized for its resistance to thermal expansion. Thermal stability is crucial, as the enamel must be repeatedly fired at temperatures approaching 800°C; any deformation would render the dial unusable.

The engraved dial base is then coated with enamel paste and repeatedly fired until the desired color and depth are achieved. The rich, translucent enamel, with its shimmering, refractive properties, further enhances the allure of the iconic carousel.

Key Information
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel Watch
Ref. 2513-500LE-6AE-RED/3A
Ref. 2513-500LE-3AE-TUR/3A

Diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 16.65 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistant: 30 meters

Movement: UN-251
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with titanium folding clasp